Scenic Sealant

Making homemade Sealant is very similar to making homemade washes. The only real differences are substituting pigment for glue & the application.

There are a couple of different versions that I use depending on my needs, at the time. If I only need a small amount to finish a project I use a quick 'down & dirty' recipe that gets the job done.

🔹1 part PVA Glue

🔹3-4 parts Water

🔹a couple of drops of Flow Aid

PVA Glue: Any glue will do, but remember not all glues are created equally. Depending on the brand you use, you may need to alter the number of parts. Water: As I said in my 'Washes' article 'water is water'. Tap water will do the job.

Flow Aid: Dish Soap is ok but Rinse Aid is better.

If I am purposely setting out to make a batch of sealant for long-term use the recipe alters slightly to create a more robust final finish.

🔹1 part PVA Glue

🔹1 part Matte Medium

🔹3-4 parts Water

🔹Flow Aid

The Matte Medium not only helps with adhesion but also impacts the finish. It can be substituted with either Satin or Gloss Medium dependent on the finish you are aiming for.

I add the Glue & Medium together first, then add the Flow Aid to the water. Once both mixtures are fully mixed, they can be combined to make the Sealant.

PVA Glue: Mod Podge Matte. I use Mod Podge as I know it works for both of these recipes & it is something I always have in my arsenal, as a crafter, where it's used for multiple different processes.

Matte Medium: Liquitex Professional Matte Medium. It's my preferred product of choice as I have been using Liquitex products for years. (I also paint on canvas).

Water: You do not need distilled water, but if you happen to live in an area with lots of minerals in your water supply, you may want to filter it first. Personally, I boil the water I am going to use & store it in a filter jug in the fridge overnight before use. Side note: This has the added advantage of making any left over nicer to drink.

Flow Aid: Liquitex Professional Flow Aid Additive. For the same reason as the Matter Medium.

Both versions I keep in a skoosh, this can also effect the ratios needed to make the Sealant. I wash out a household cleaner skoosh to store & apply my Sealants. Like PVA, these are not created equally.

When using the Sealant, you want it to eject as a fine mist rather than a stream of liquid or droplets, which helps with controlling the liquid & stops it from moving any aggregate you have laid down. It's worth bearing in mind that the mechanisms used in skooshes are different depending on the manufacturer, and additionally, you may need to add more water to your mix to ensure you get the fine mist.

I recommend cutting about an inch off the bottom of the tube that sits in the liquid inside the skoosh. There is often a small filter at the bottom of this tube which is rarely a fan of Sealant. There can also be an issue with storage as naturally, if your Sealant has sat for a while it can separate with all the heavier constituents falling to the bottom which over time can cause a blockage.

Cleaning you skoosh after use is also necessary. If not, the trigger mechanism will seize up. The solution is very simple. Use the spray mechanism to draw through some hot water, rinse the whole suction & spray section clear of Sealant & then put the skoosh back together & store.

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When using the Sealant, you will also need some alcohol, any alcohol will do but don't waste the good stuff! I use Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) which is mainly used as a cleaning agent & disinfectant. Like the Mod Podge, it also has multiple uses in terrain building & mini painting & should be something that you keep to hand. It is a readily available, even on sites like Amazon.

The IPA is used to help further break water tension, allowing the Sealant to sink right into the recesses of your aggregate, sealing everything in place.

It also helps keep your aggregate in place before using the Sealant. In a process known as 'wet working' once you have sprayed your aggregate with IPA you can added more aggregate on top of that area before adding the Sealant.

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Sealant doesn't work well with all aggregates, flock is a great example of this. Foam flock is great at absorbing Sealant but sawdust flock not so great. For static grass, I wouldn't advise using it at all, better using a spray varnish. As with any product, I do advise making a test piece first & experimenting to get the finish you want.

The biggest advantage of making your own Sealant is the cost but using the 'down & dirty' recipe also means you are using household products & if you live near any kind of civility, all the ingredients should be readily available to you exactly when you need them.